Hula Grill is the sneaky move in Waikiki. It sits one floor directly above Duke's — same building, same beach, same ocean — and everyone piles into Duke's downstairs by default. Upstairs is quieter, open to the breeze, and you look straight out over the palms to the water. Better views, no line.

Ordered a pineapple cocktail because sometimes you are on vacation and the correct answer is the obvious one. It came in an actual hollowed-out pineapple with a paper straw. Sweet, tart, enough rum to earn a seat. Not trying to be clever. Just a good pineapple drink in the correct vessel.

Fish tacos for food — ono, I think — grilled, flaky, with a slaw that wasn't mayonnaise-heavy, which I appreciate. Three per order, enough to be a light lunch if you wanted. The fries were fries. Fine.

Stayed through the sunset. The hula band comes on at some point and at first I thought it would be too much, but it isn't — soft enough to talk over, just the right island soundtrack. Walked out thinking: this is the one to recommend if someone asks where to have a drink in Waikiki. Not Duke's. Upstairs.